Lacoste presented its Spring Summer 2027 collection on the Philippe Chatrier court at Roland Garros on October 4. The official title, Dress code: No white required, immediately established the premise. Pelagia Kolotouros did not celebrate the conventional all-white tennis uniform. She considered what happens when the visual rules of the sport are rewritten through the court, the body and urban dressing.
The red and earthy tones of clay offered a natural counterpoint to familiar club white. Colour was more than decoration. It carried the memory of the venue into the clothes. Athletic codes moved closer to the body and then away through relaxed layers. Familiar elements such as the polo, skirt, light top and tracksuit returned with different proportions and a different kind of sensuality.
ELLE Brasil highlighted the collection’s more sensual treatment of sports codes, while Vogue Italia focused on how forms rooted in 1920s tennis clothing moved beyond the limits of the court. That historical movement matters for Lacoste. René Lacoste’s legacy supplies an authentic sporting foundation, but the contemporary brand cannot simply reproduce an old polo. It must interpret freedom of movement as a current wardrobe.
The venue therefore functioned as more than background. The scale of the stadium and the texture of clay enlarged the clothes’ sporting origins, while the choreography of a fashion show removed them from the specific function of a match. Viewers could see both the discipline of uniform and its release. Rejecting a dress code did not mean rejecting rules. It meant writing new ones.
From a business perspective, one of Lacoste’s greatest strengths is its immediately legible sports heritage. The crocodile, polo shirt and tennis are codes recognised around the world. The collection can reach a new audience only if these become more than nostalgic products. The palette, relationship to the body and layering that works beyond a stadium were therefore essential.
For Hungarian readers, a wearable translation is easier than copying a complete runway look. Clay, rust or sand can replace a white tennis polo. A pleated skirt can be balanced with trainers and a relaxed top, while technical fabric can become urban next to fine knitwear. Sports dressing then becomes a daytime language of proportion rather than a gym costume.
Lacoste Spring 2027 did not claim that white would disappear from tennis. It showed that tradition stays alive when it can be questioned. On the clay of Roland Garros, the house treated its own history as material, but the next movement already led beyond the court.
