Tailoring with its own voice
At the 14 September Emmys, Emma D’Arcy bypassed the usual mega-houses for Japanese label Soshiotsuki. The broad-shouldered jacket, waistcoat, dusty-rose shirt and dramatically wide, triple-pleated trousers balanced the mood of 1980s Japanese office wear with the ease of 1990s Armani.
It was Soshiotsuki’s first red-carpet placement. That matters for a designer who, even after winning the 2025 LVMH Prize, has resisted instant overexposure. Stylist Rose Forde replaced the runway’s white shirt with muted pink, connecting the tailoring to Tiffany jewellery without diluting its radical proportions.
The lesson is simple: red-carpet fashion is most compelling when it offers discovery instead of hierarchy.
Source: GQ. Updated 18 September 2026.
