The space imposed discipline
On September 25, Elisabetta Franchi staged her first show at the label’s Milan headquarters, an industrial yet rigorous setting once home to Dimorestudio. The venue was not a backdrop; it reinforced the collection’s more restrained, exacting logic.
Night, by subtraction
Franchi removed not sparkle but excess from eveningwear. Oversized sequins formed a liquid surface in motion, while embroidery punctuated romantic lace with flashes of light. Ninety-denier tights became a second skin translated across dresses, tops, skirts and bustiers.
The shoulder speaks
Shoulders became the focus of the silhouette, either sharpened through construction or exposed by necklines. Sportswear and menswear codes kept the sensuality taut. Black, nude, pale pink and camel were interrupted by a single red-velvet moment.
Editor’s note: minimalism here does not mean silence; it means editing. Franchi does not want to say less—she chooses more precisely what should remain in the frame.
Source: Vogue Runway, September 25, 2026. Updated September 26, 2026.
